John Walsh, writing for the Times, finds a piece of cooking-as-theatre that delivers real drama at Kiln in London Soho.
“No gas or electricity is used. Seven young chefs in black T-shirts and long black aprons manipulate woks over ancient iron buckets filled with cylindrical red embers of oak and applewood. A wall-mounted shelf above a flaming abyss forms a rudimentary eye-level grill. You watch the chefs transform cuts of meat and fish, seizing handfuls of noodles, applying shreds of onion, chilli, lemon grass, pak choi and mushroom to the hot dishes. It’s Soho’s version of the Yaowarat Road, Bangkok’s Chinatown.