One of Hull’s oldest buildings (aptly named the Old House) has been given a new lease of life. Strip down the menu, pay attention to detail, and the Old House could be something special, writes Jay Rayner in the Observer.
It reads like a hotel menu, and those are exceptionally hard to pull off. In truth, Harrison doesn’t quite manage it. But there are flashes of brilliance, and things that could be really good with a little work. For example, he serves a terrific sausage roll for £1.50, all flaky pastry, ripe pigginess and the sweet, dark tones of caramelised onion. Only he serves it stone cold and deathly. It’s a promise unrealised; a disappointment in a heavy pastry overcoat.