“I can state plainly that this was one of 2017’s greatest dinners” says Grace Dent of the Evening Standard about Westerns Laundry, Holloway.
What Westerns Laundry is in truth is pure joy. A spacious, industrial yet warmly elegant room, hiding behind birch trees on a residential strip in N5.
It was a balmy Friday, the room was open-fronted and the service warm. The kitchen buzzed with bright young chefs and the blackboard menu spoke of lobster fideuà, cockles with fennel tops, sardines, Marie Rose langoustines and chargrilled leeks. It’s one of those places I felt instantly at home, shoes dispatched under the table, hair down and a glass of Veneto Frizzante Garg’n’Go in hand. I’m not a holistic, bio-wine, grit in the glass evangelist by any shout, but I’m willing to sample anything offered to me with enthusiasm.