Grace Dent of the Evening Standard abandons her saintly intentions at Stevie Parle’s new joint, Sardine on Micawber Street.
“Southern Europe — in Sardine’s terms — is Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily, coastal Catalonia, Provence and Languedoc, some of North Africa, and other places quickly reachable from Gatwick. Alex Jackson is formerly head chef at Rotorino. At Sardine, he aims to offer the sort of dinners that nanas from the region might cook; salade niçoise, soupe au pistou, fish and meats on beans, tomatoes stuffed with simple things, lamb cooked on the fire. It’s relaxed food and a decidedly relaxed place. Chic not chintzy.