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Reviews: Giles Coren deems Sorella a ‘great local restaurant’ and Jay Rayner has a ‘spot on’ experience at United Chip

19 Monday Mar 2018

Posted by Guide Girl in Celebrity chef, Chefs, Food Critics, Hotels, Menus, Michelin-starred restaurants, New restaurant launches, Restaurants, What the Critics Say

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Indian Accent, Merry Harriers, Old Course hotel, Romy’s Kitchen, Santa Maria, Sorella, United Chip

Sorella

Sorella, Clapham: “The crockery was all rather Fred Flintstone. Pasta bowls appeared to be solid stone. Almost too heavy to lift” Giles Coren says in the Times.

It is an excellent restaurant. We started with crispy arancini balls, four of them truffled and two of them black with squid ink, as well as some slices of an excellent, chewy salumi of pork and fennel made right there in the restaurant and two kinds of sweet, aromatic prosciutto. These we ate with some top-class homemade sourdough, also made in-house.

From this excellent start, things only improved. “Cacklebean egg yolk & spiky artichoke” sat on a wonderfully seaweedy bed of slowly reduced cavolo nero, the yolk a firm, luminescent gel, with shards of crisped garlic and a scatter of well-dressed salad leaves – a sharp and elegant vegetarian dish with a rich, chewy soul.

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Reviews: Mark O’Flaherty finds Chris Simpson’s food at Gidleigh Park matches up to the location while Grace Dent says Roganic is already a place for chefs

12 Monday Feb 2018

Posted by Guide Girl in Celebrity chef, Chefs, Food Critics, Hotels, Menus, Michelin-starred restaurants, New restaurant launches, Restaurants, What the Critics Say

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Bombay Bustle, Gidleigh Park, Henry’s, Roganic, Sorella, Supawan, the Coach

Gidleigh

Mark O’Flaherty of the Sunday Telegraph says the food from newly arrived chef Chris Simpson at Gidleigh Park, Chagford, Devon, matches up to the location, architecture and interior design of the hotel.

I slept in the Drago suite (from £505 per night) with a river-facing balcony, a fabulously comfortable bed and a complimentary decanter of Madeira wine. Downstairs, (Chris) Simpson (formerly of Restaurant Nathan Outlaw in Port Isaac, Cornwall) was a few weeks into his stride. By all accounts, he’s doing his own thing, creating something rustic and rooted in the culinary traditions and produce of the South West, Much of it struck me as refined gastropub stuff – just the kind of thing you’d want, perhaps, somewhere like this, And an indulgent weekend on the country might be the last bastion of the £145, seven-course, three and a half hour tasting menu. I rarely eat this like in cities anymore, but in the wilds of Devon it was a holiday in itself.

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  • Reviews: Giles Coren deems Sorella a ‘great local restaurant’ and Jay Rayner has a ‘spot on’ experience at United Chip March 19, 2018
  • Reviews: Jay Rayner says the food at Farm Girl Café is so bad that a Yorkshire terrier started to look appetising while Marina O’Loughlin has an absolutely fabulous time at the Ritz March 12, 2018
  • Reviews: Giles Coren has the worst meal ever at Ella Canta while Marina O’Loughlin calls Bombay Bustle a ‘beautiful newcomer’ February 26, 2018
  • Reviews: Fiona Duncan is delighted about the frivolity and naughtiness of Kettner’s Townhouse while Kathryn Flett says Roganic has the promised wow factor but finds the experience lacking February 19, 2018
  • Reviews: Mark O’Flaherty finds Chris Simpson’s food at Gidleigh Park matches up to the location while Grace Dent says Roganic is already a place for chefs February 12, 2018

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