Sorella, Clapham: “The crockery was all rather Fred Flintstone. Pasta bowls appeared to be solid stone. Almost too heavy to lift” Giles Coren says in the Times.
It is an excellent restaurant. We started with crispy arancini balls, four of them truffled and two of them black with squid ink, as well as some slices of an excellent, chewy salumi of pork and fennel made right there in the restaurant and two kinds of sweet, aromatic prosciutto. These we ate with some top-class homemade sourdough, also made in-house.
From this excellent start, things only improved. “Cacklebean egg yolk & spiky artichoke” sat on a wonderfully seaweedy bed of slowly reduced cavolo nero, the yolk a firm, luminescent gel, with shards of crisped garlic and a scatter of well-dressed salad leaves – a sharp and elegant vegetarian dish with a rich, chewy soul.