Grace Dent of the Evening Standard is left cold by Xu – the hotly anticipated new Taiwanese opening in London’s Soho.
Suffice to say, the thing you need to know for now is, Xu is pronounced ‘sheuuuu’. Not zoo. Not Sue. Pronounce it in a manner that suggests it’s utterly commonplace to pop in for tiny lunchtime foie gras terrine ‘gold coins’ embossed with a layer of Shaoxing wine jelly, a terrine of wobbly, glistening, numbing beef tendon.
Xu is a rather gorgeous, slightly peculiar, cramped yet characterful, wood-panelled, Wes Anderson-style reinterpretation of yesteryear Taipei. Tea is available, but the cocktails are serious. Try a Daiga, a tiny, fearsome, delicious sipping glass of amontillado sherry, cognac, Chinese mushroom and liquorice root. I guarantee the world will feel better within two tiny mouthfuls.