Cosmopolitan, suave, charming… Xavier Rousset’s Blandford Comptoir is a “lovely Italian that shows what a good idea EU membership was”, says the Observer’s Jay Rayner.
“From the meatier list there’s a terrine with a heart of rabbit which, while strong on the craftsmanship, could do with a whack of seasoning. So much better are chunky-thighed legs of quail, quick roasted, and glazed with the sort of intense sticky reduction you chase around the bottom of the roasting pan with one fat finger. (You don’t do that? Oh.) There are toasted pine nuts and thick rounds of an impeccable truffled boudin. This is unapologetically high-bourgeois cooking. It’s the edible equivalent of a well-groomed chap in a smoking jacket and velvet slippers with a bulb of aged brandy warming in his palm. It’s a steadying hand on your shoulder when times are tough, and right now they are. It’s food made by someone who gives a damn.”
The Times’ Giles Coren tried out Xavier Rousset’s new London restaurant Blandford Comptoir and is relieved to find a “small, cool, airy jewel of a place”.
“Next up was some octopus, warm with potatoes, perfect with Meursault. Then, even more perfectly with the Meursault, two huge scallops, as round and plump and fresh from the sea as a mermaid’s breast implants, just seared to golden on the top with a mild fish velouté, peas, fever and I think the shoots of peas, too. Perfectly finished, beautifully plated. Continue reading