Giles Coren reviews Ella Canta, London W1 in the Times: ‘The rest of the food is utterly filthy. I’d say this is the worst restaurant I have ever reviewed.’
I first heard about Ella Canta towards the end of last year and liked the sound of it. And according to the website, “Mexico’s natural bounty is chef Martha Ortiz’s inspiration. Her art is a response to the colours, textures, stories and spirit of her beloved country. Modernist expressions of customary cuisine.” So how could I not go?
The guacamole and tortilla chips (£9) [are] nutty and crisp and the guac pepped with ricotta and pomegranate seeds for a red, white and green effect. On top is a “gold grasshopper”. Same as all the other grasshoppers I’ve eaten: dry, faintly shrimpy, like chewing the cardboard sarcophagus of a long interred prawn.