Young National Chef of the Year 2012, WorldSkills 2011 gold medal winner and Pierre Koffmann protégé, Ben Murphy, adds to the accolades this week with five stars from the Sunday Times’ AA Gill for his new restaurant the Woodford in South Woodford, East London.
“I don’t quite know where to lay the emphasis of this review. It could go either way. This is all a strikingly old-fashioned concept that celebrates lots of things that contemporary restaurants are trying to get away from. But they make the type of food I have loved for years, with a precision I feared was vanishing. The three-course set lunch was £29 — by far and away the best value in Greater London. It is offered not to the bored, irony-sated sophisticates of the east, but to the children of the cashed-up and comfortable working class. And what is that if not the aesthetic radicalism that Morris, Attlee and Pankhurst would all have approved of — not to make the bankers sup in soup kitchens, but to lift the workers so that they could have their potatoes in truffled ravioli.” Continue reading