Thumbnail image for Thumbnail image for Thumbnail image for Thumbnail image for What the Critics SayGiles Coren loves two-Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan’s
new restaurant the French at the Midland Hotel in Manchester.

 

The Times critic says he’d “walk to Manchester barefoot
in the rain for one more mouthful of the chopped raw ribeye of ox in coal oil”.
“There is nothing like it to be had in England, and I will take the flavour to
my grave,” Coren enthuses.

 

Writing for the Independent, John Walsh says Jason Atherton’s latest venture Little
Social
, just across from the original Pollen Street Social, has an irresistible
dining room and a menu full of invention, polish and presentation.

 

The Guardian’s Marina O’Loughlin enjoys the pimped
comfort food at Electric Diner, a joint venture from Soho House Group and Brendan
Sodikoff’s acclaimed Au
Cheval restaurant in
Chicago.

 

Master & Servant on Hoxton Square may be named after
Depeche Mode but, sadly, you can have more than enough, says Joe Warwick
writing in Metro, while the London Evening Standard’s Fay Maschler finds lashings
of good grub and hints of Enid Blyton at Claude’s Kitchen in Parsons Green.

 

A pretentious name and drab food make dining at Ametsa
with Arzak instruction
at the Halkin Hotel a disappointing experience, says
Matthew Norman of the Daily Telegraph.

 

Finally the Sunday Times’ AA Gill says the 15-course menu
at HKK, the latest London opening from Chinese restaurant company Hakkasan Group in the City, offers bland, unfocused, imprecise
and unnecessary food.