The Times critic says he’d “walk to Manchester barefoot
in the rain for one more mouthful of the chopped raw ribeye of ox in coal oil”.
“There is nothing like it to be had in England, and I will take the flavour to
my grave,” Coren enthuses.
Writing for the Independent, John Walsh says Jason Atherton’s latest venture Little
Social, just across from the original Pollen Street Social, has an irresistible
dining room and a menu full of invention, polish and presentation.
Master & Servant on Hoxton Square may be named after
Depeche Mode but, sadly, you can have more than enough, says Joe Warwick
writing in Metro, while the London Evening Standard’s Fay Maschler finds lashings
of good grub and hints of Enid Blyton at Claude’s Kitchen in Parsons Green.
Finally the Sunday Times’ AA Gill says the 15-course menu
at HKK, the latest London opening from Chinese restaurant company Hakkasan Group in the City, offers bland, unfocused, imprecise
and unnecessary food.